A Como Lake fan? Try Iseo Lake as well

Lake Iseo is an easily accessible destination that offers an intimate and secluded experience, as described by George Sand. It is certainly the least affected by mass tourism among all the major lakes in Lombardy, which preserves its charm and authenticity. Monte Isola, Italy’s largest lake island, is accessible and its absence of cars has made its narrow streets and shores even quieter. After leaving the car in the Sulzano parking lot, visitors embark to reach the opposite shore and can use the Oldofredi Castle as a base for exploring Lake Iseo.

In a few steps, visitors can reach the entrance next to the suggestive Church of San Michele, whose profile dominates the panorama of Peschiera Maraglio, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy steeped in the ancient wisdom of fishermen, skilled producers of fishing nets (now also used for other purposes, such as hammocks). In addition to the castle and the church, visitors can also see from a distance Rocca Martinengo and the Sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola which, if you have even just another half day available, are worth a visit (info here).

At the reception, visitors are immediately welcomed and accompanied to their apartment. For larger families, the Oldofredi Castle offers several spacious and charming solutions. The furnishings are warm and retro, as expected from a location of great history like this, but at the same time not too heavy, with the right dose of minimal linearity, in short, a little gem. Upon entering the door, visitors can admire the beauty that surrounds them and enjoy the welcoming atmosphere, surrounded by the view of the lake, a wonderful sight that can be enjoyed in all its splendor early in the morning, after a restorative sleep.

Breakfast is served in the internal restaurant hall (during the warmer season, it can also be enjoyed outdoors), also beautifully decorated, in a harmonious alternation of tapestries and paintings of scenes from the simple life of the old village, mirrors, and French doors from which to admire the lake. Right from the French doors, before embarking on the lake tour, it is fantastic to be able to go outside for half an hour of sun in the magnificent garden of the castle: olive trees, a swimming pool, and hammocks make visitors regret that they can only stay for one day.

The imminent activity that somewhat reluctantly pushes visitors to take up their backpacks and go to the marina is the tour of the three islands with the Barcaioli of Monte Isola. Exploring the islands by boat is one of the favorite activities for many children who love to be lulled by the sound of the water and the captain’s narrations, and it is a pleasant experience for the whole family. Many curiosities are revealed, including the local setting of George Sand’s novel “Lucrezia Floriani,” the property transfers of the islets of Loreto and San Paolo, and the evocative description of the festival of the Holy Cross in the hamlet of Carzano.

A very evocative festival, indeed: every 5 years, an ancient tradition is renewed where, for 4 days, since 1836 following an epidemic of Asian cholera from India, the entire village solemnly carried a relic indicated as a piece of the Holy Cross in procession and “the disease ceased as if by magic”. Since then, Carzano lights up every 5 years on September 14th with over 200,000 papier-mâché flowers created by the industrious hands of the islanders that adorn the streets of the hamlet in imposing arches.

Learn more about the festival: https://www.visitmonteisola.it/en/cosa-fare-lago-iseo-monte-isola/santa-croce-festival/ (link to be insert in the “festival” word)

Another evocative visit is that of the Rete Museum, which represents the life of fishermen who have contributed to the history of these lands. This and the visit to the shipyard are part of the “craft tours” offered by the Barcaioli of Monte Isola.

After the tour, one can’t wait to enjoy a nice lunch based on lake specialties such as perch and whitefish, baked tench, dried lake sardines, Montisola salami, exclusive to this island, very lean and delicately smoked, fresh pasta with sardines, polenta, and much more.

The editorial team stopped at Hostaria Milago, a family-friendly venue where the welcome was very warm. We particularly recommend the appetizers and the “bigoli” with lake sardines. In the afternoon, the tour continues on foot around Monte Isola, visiting the Church of San Michele, which leaves one speechless with its scenographic and frescoed interior. The beauty of Monte Isola seems to modestly hide from prying eyes and reveal itself only to those who truly want to discover it.

With a hint of regret, Monte Isola is bid farewell before heading towards the Bergamo shore to undertake a second walk towards Sarnico, reachable by car.

Other destinations in the area: Franciacorta and Valcamonica are excellent destinations for families looking for authenticity and experiences for adults and children alike.

Sarnico, a characteristic village with a medieval urban layout, is a perfect place to spend a peaceful afternoon with children, offering an enchanting view. Here, the western shore of Lake Iseo flows into the Oglio River, creating a panorama of rare beauty. This spot is particularly suitable for those using a stroller, as there are no ups and downs, but a lakeside promenade lined with a playground, ideal for entertaining little explorers and stopping to admire the lake with a delicious ice cream in hand. Sarnico also offers two other attractions, especially regarding the Liberty architectural style: here, one can admire numerous historic villas designed by Milanese architect Giuseppe Sommaruga, as well as in nearby Lovere, another beautiful village on Lake Iseo, where it is possible to take a tour to discover the tower houses. In Sarnico, there is also an antique and collectibles market held on the fourth and fifth Sunday of the month, an event to mark in the agenda for vintage lovers. Finally, the Treno Blu Sebino Express, a historic train departing from Milan Centrale, Monza, and Bergamo, is another way to visit the area, particularly popular with children.